Sweden has a way of softening you.

The quiet lakes, the deep forests, the chance of spotting a moose at any random moment. It’s a country that feels both wild and gentle at the same time. And Värmland might be one of our favourite places in all of Sweden: endless water, tiny islands, and that calm Nordic magic you can’t quite explain.

This year, we traded our van for a canoe and spent three days paddling through Värmland with Travelbase. We were a bit nervous because we’d never done a canoe expedition before, but the cosy basecamp, warm coffee, and cinnamon buns eased us right into it.

We didn’t know it yet, but those three days would become some of our favourite memories of Sweden.

The trip began at a small, cosy basecamp; the kind of place that immediately slows your pulse. We parked the van (always a strange feeling, leaving our rolling home behind), checked in, and found ourselves surrounded by the smell of pine trees… and unexpectedly… warm coffee and cinnamon buns.
Honestly? The best possible welcome to calm the nerves.

We talked with Ranger Femke, who explained the basics with calm confidence. Lumi adored her, which felt like the ultimate approval. With her guidance, and a mountain of food provided by Travelbase (really, SO MUCH FOOD), our nervousness softened into excitement.

The beauty of canoe-camping is that you carry everything with you, tent, cooking gear, food, layers, and suddenly you’re free. Completely free. No roads, no villages, just water, wilderness, and whatever pace you choose.

With our barrels packed, canoe steady in the water, and Lumi practicing her “I’m-the-captain” face, we pushed off, not knowing what the next days would bring.

Day one greeted us with cloudy skies and a stubborn headwind. The kind of wind that laughs at every paddle stroke and often wins. We fell into a rhythm quickly, paddle, breathe, adjust direction, laugh a little, complain a little, paddle again. Lumi watched us like she wasn’t fully convinced this was a good idea.

But Värmland has a way of rewarding effort.
Even through the grey light, the landscape looked magical: deep green shorelines, tall trees mirrored in the water, birds gliding low over the lake. The air had that crisp Swedish purity that makes you feel alive in the best way.

We passed hidden coves and deserted little beaches, imagining where a moose might wander out of the forest. Every crack of a branch made us look twice. You never really know in Sweden, and that’s part of the charm.

After a few hours of slow progress, we spotted our first tiny island, a perfect dot of land in the middle of the water. Quiet. Empty. Totally ours!

We pulled the canoe ashore, stretched our legs, and immediately felt the magic of wild camping settle in. No people, no noise,  just the sound of water lapping gently against the rocks.

The tent went surprisingly well to set up (quicker than expected, actually) and before we knew it our little island had turned into a cosy campsite. Cooking gear laid out, sleeping bags fluffed, Lumi supervising every move like she’d done this a thousand times.

As the evening settled in, the wind calmed. We sat by the shore, eating warm pasta and watching the sky shift from grey to soft blue. Sweden always finds a way to give you a moment like that, quiet, simple, exactly enough.

We slept on our little island surrounded by water, wrapped in the feeling of being nowhere and everywhere at once.

We woke up to a lake wrapped in morning mist, the kind that makes Värmland feel dreamlike and untouched. The air was cool, crisp, and completely still. Lumi poked her head out of the tent with that “Where are we today?” expression, and we packed up camp with quiet excitement.

The moment our canoe slid back into the water, we knew Day 2 would be different. The headwind of yesterday had softened, and in front of us stretched a maze of islands, hundreds of them scattered across the lake like stepping stones. It felt like an invitation to explore.

Every paddle stroke revealed something new: little rocky outcrops, sheltered coves, sandy patches shaped by the wind. We kept wondering if we’d spot a moose on the shoreline, a dark silhouette between the trees. In Sweden, moose always feel both mythical and entirely possible.

This became our day of discovery. We hopped from island to island without any real plan, following curiosity more than the map. Some islands were tiny, barely large enough for a tree. Others felt wild and untouched, covered in soft moss and tall pines that whispered in the wind.

We’d pull the canoe onto a rock, stretch our legs, let Lumi lead the way. She sniffed every corner like she was documenting Sweden herself. We found viewpoints overlooking endless stretches of water, little cliffs perfect for lunch breaks, and narrow channels where the lake felt as calm as a mirror.

At one point, far across the water, we saw something move between the trees. A shadow. A shape. Maybe a moose. Maybe not. But that’s the magic of Värmland, you’re never alone, even when it feels like you are.

With the wind finally on our side, we decided to leave the suggested route behind and make our own. It felt good to choose islands based on instinct instead of instructions. We paddled slower, more relaxed, and finally felt fully in the rhythm of the trip.

By late afternoon, we reached a bigger island that immediately looked right for the night. Tall trees, flat ground, a quiet stretch of shoreline: simple and exactly what we needed. We set up the tent under the pines, laid out the cooking gear, and watched Lumi do her usual “patrol laps” like she somehow owned all of Värmland.

As the light shifted, Wout took off on his own mini-mission: trying to catch a fish at the edge of the island. No pressure, just him, a line in the water, and a very patient Sweden. Lauren kept an eye on dinner, and the whole place felt calm in that effortless Scandinavian way.

We ate by the water, listened to the lake, and enjoyed the quiet. Another island, another night outside, exactly why we love Sweden.

Day 3 started just as sunny and calm as Day 2. By then we were fully in the rhythm of the trip:  slow mornings, smooth paddling, nothing rushed. Lumi jumped into the canoe like she finally understood the drill, curled up, and immediately fell asleep.

With basecamp not too far away, we decided to make the most of the day. We took detours to a few last islands, drifted through wide quiet stretches of water, and just enjoyed how easy everything suddenly felt. After the headwind and effort of Day 1, this part of Värmland felt like a soft landing.

We wanted to cook some lunch on a camp fire so we deciced to paddle to one of the shelters shown on the Travelbase app. They’re easy to find, marked clearly along the lake, and it felt like a fun way to end the trip.

At the shelter we weren’t alone — a few other canoe trippers had stopped there too, and it ended up being really nice to chat with fellow travellers. Everyone had their own little stories from the trip: headwinds, favourite islands, moments of total calm. It felt relaxed and casual, the kind of travel conversation that only happens outdoors.

We made lunch over a small fire, keeping it simple and warm. Lumi placed herself right in the middle of everything, obviously convinced she was part of the hosting team.

After eating, we packed up again and paddled the last stretch back to basecamp. The water stayed calm, the sun stayed out, and suddenly the trip was almost over. We both felt that quiet, familiar sadness you get when an adventure ends sooner than you’d like.

Heading back wasn’t easy, but that usually means it was a really good one.